Do I need a permit for a deck?

It depends on the height, whether it attaches to the house, and where it sits on the property. Some decks require one and some do not — we confirm what applies rather than assuming.

What decking material is best in South Florida?

It depends on your maintenance appetite. Pressure-treated pine is cheapest but needs regular sealing; cedar and hardwoods are more stable and age well with maintenance; composite needs almost none but costs most and can get hot in full sun. The comparison table above sets out the real differences.

How long does a deck last here?

It depends far more on the structure and hardware than on the boards. Properly sized footings, standoff post anchors, a flashed ledger and corrosion-rated connectors are what determine longevity — boards themselves are replaceable.

Why does the ledger need flashing?

Because water runs down the house wall, and without flashing it runs straight into the junction between the deck and the structure. That junction is concealed once the boards are on, and it is the most common source of hidden rot in houses with decks.

Can a deck attach to any wall?

Not necessarily. The wall has to be able to carry the load and be suitable for the fastener pattern, and it has to be assessable. Where it is not, a freestanding deck with its own posts is the right answer.

What maintenance will it need?

Timber decks need regular cleaning and periodic sealing or staining; composite needs cleaning only. In this climate, all decks benefit from keeping debris out of the board gaps so water can drain and timber can dry.

How high can a deck be before railings are required?

Guard railing requirements are height-dependent and set locally. We confirm what applies for your deck rather than working to a rule of thumb — and where a railing is required, the newel fixing method matters as much as the railing itself.

Can we add a roof or pergola later?

Much more easily if provision is made now. Framing and footings can be specified to carry a future cover, which is far cheaper than retrofitting support into a finished deck.

Pressure-treated timber is treated against them, and detailing matters too — keeping timber off the ground, out of standing water and able to dry reduces the conditions they favour.

How long does construction take?

A straightforward deck is a short project, but there is a fixed pause for footings to cure, and both the footing and finishing stages are weather-dependent.

Can you build over an existing patio?

Sometimes, depending on the slab's condition and the height it creates. It has to be assessed rather than assumed — building over an unsound slab moves the problem rather than solving it.

Is financing available?

Financing options are available through Mosaic.

Which fasteners should hold a deck in Florida humidity?

Use stainless steel or hot-dip galvanized hardware rated for treated lumber, because ordinary steel corrodes fast in humid, salty air and can fail. The connectors at the ledger, posts and joists matter most. We specify the hardware in the permit drawings and use the same type throughout so metals do not react with one another.

Can a deck with peeling stain be refinished?

Usually, but the old finish has to come off first. Peeling stain means water got under the film. We clean the deck, sand or strip the failed coating, let the wood dry, and apply a penetrating stain or sealer. Replace any soft or rotted boards, since refinishing does not repair damaged wood.

Should pressure-treated boards go down wet?

Wet boards shrink as they dry, so gaps open up. Dry boards swell when wet, so tight gaps can close. Installers often space boards slightly and let them settle. Ask how the lumber was stored and fastened. We follow the manufacturer's spacing guidance and leave drainage gaps between boards.

What does the code say about stairs?

Stairs need consistent riser heights, a minimum tread depth, a graspable handrail and a guard where the drop is high enough. A tall or uneven riser is the most common trip hazard. The permit drawing shows each dimension. The inspector measures the stairs, so we set them out carefully before cutting stringers.

Should I add lattice skirting around the deck?

It tidies the look and keeps animals out, but it must allow air flow and access. A closed skirt traps moisture under the deck and encourages rot and pests. We install lattice with ventilation, and include a removable panel so you can reach the area under the boards.

How do footings work in sandy soil with a high water table?

Sandy soil and groundwater can reduce bearing capacity, so footings need the right depth and size for the soil. We check the soil conditions and adjust the footing design if needed. Skipping footings or using shallow ones is the most common reason a deck sags or shifts over time.

What does a deck inspection check?

The inspector checks footings before they are covered, the framing and connections before the boards go on, and the stairs, railings and finished work at the end. You get inspection records that you may need if you sell the home. We schedule each stage and do not cover work until it has passed.

How do I keep a wood deck from getting slippery?

Slippery decks are usually growing mildew or algae. Sweep leaves, keep plants from holding moisture, and clean the surface with a deck cleaner and a soft brush. Boards with grooves grip better, and a sealer limits moisture. Avoid pressure washing too hard because it damages the wood fibers.

Wood Deck Construction in South Florida

Exterior remodeling · South Florida

The structure is the deck.

Boards are replaceable and relatively cheap. Footings, posts, beams, joists and the connection back to the house are neither — and they are what fails when a deck fails.

In this climate every fixing is a corrosion question and every timber-to-timber junction is a moisture trap unless it is detailed to drain. Building a deck that lasts means using hardware rated for the environment, keeping end grain out of standing water, and flashing the ledger so the house does not rot behind it.

Request A Project Estimate See how a deck carries load

4.8Google rating across 343 reviews

104municipalities across three counties

CBC1265280Florida general contractor licence

Licensed & insuredState-licensed GC, bonded and insured
Design-buildDrawings and construction under one contract
Permits & inspectionsSubmission, review comments and closeout
LocalMiami-Dade · Broward · Palm Beach
FinancingOptions available through Mosaic

What a properly built deck buys

Ten years of not thinking about it.

Most deck problems are not board problems. They are water sitting where it should have drained, or steel corroding where it should have been rated for the job.

Footings.
Ledger. Hardware.

Those three decide the deck's life. Everything else — board choice, railing style, stair design — is appearance and comfort. A beautiful deck on undersized footings with an unflashed ledger is a maintenance liability with a nice surface.

Footings sized for the loads and set to bear properly.
Posts on standoff anchors so end grain is not sitting in water.
A ledger connection that is flashed to shed water away from the house.
Connectors and fixings rated for treated timber near the coast.

Drainage is designed, not hoped for

Consistent board gaps, a slight fall where appropriate, and no detail that traps water against end grain. Timber that can dry between wettings lasts; timber that stays damp does not.

Railings are a structural element

A guard railing has to resist real horizontal load. Newel posts through-bolted into the frame behave very differently from posts screwed to the outside of a rim board.

Deck boards being fastened to the joists of a new wood deck — Illustration of a completed timber deck. AI-assisted visualization. Illustrative of the process described; not a photograph of a completed Elbaz Construction project.

Stairs are where geometry has to be exact.

Every riser the same height, every tread the same depth, and a consistent nosing. Uneven risers are the most common trip hazard on a domestic deck, and they are entirely a setting-out problem — the stringers have to be cut to a calculated rise rather than adjusted at the bottom.

Pressure-treated, cedar, or composite?

All three suit South Florida differently on cost, maintenance and how they behave in sun and humidity. Compared properly below.

Compare the materials

Illustrated build sequence

How a deck actually goes together.

From footings to finished railing, in the order the work is done — with the connections that decide the deck's life shown before they disappear.

Completed wood deck seen from the house doors looking out into the yard

Concrete footings and pressure-treated posts set for a new wood deck

Blocking installed between deck joists during framing

Completed wood deck seen from the house doors looking out into the yard

AI-assisted visualization. Illustrative of the process described; not a photograph of a completed Elbaz Construction project. We hold no photographed timber deck project we can publish, so rather than present somebody else's work as ours, this sequence illustrates how a deck is built and what the connections should look like.

What the sequence shows

From the ground up.

Project record

Scope: Timber deck construction, attached or freestanding
Structure: Footings · post anchors · posts · beams · joists · ledger and flashing
Surface: Decking boards, stairs, guard railing and trim
Hardware: Connectors and fixings rated for exterior treated timber
Not included by default: Screened enclosures, roofing over the deck and pool-barrier compliance — quoted separately

Footings and anchorage

Footings sized and set to bear properly, with post base anchors that hold the post above the concrete rather than in contact with it. That standoff is a small detail that adds years, because it keeps post end grain out of standing water.

The ledger, if it attaches to the house

Bolted back to the structure with a proper fastener pattern, and — critically — flashed so water running down the wall is shed outward rather than into the junction. An unflashed ledger is the most common cause of concealed rot in a house with a deck.

Beams, joists and blocking

Framing at the spacing the boards and loads require, hung in rated connectors, with blocking where the frame needs lateral stability. Consistent spacing is what stops boards feeling springy underfoot.

Boards, stairs and railing

Boards laid with consistent gaps for drainage and movement, stairs cut to a calculated rise so every riser matches, and a guard railing with newels through-bolted into the frame rather than surface-fixed.

Want a deck specified from the footings up?

The structure is what you are actually buying. We quote it that way.

Book the consultation

Scope options

Three ways a deck gets scoped.

Planning tiers, not packages. What suits depends on the site, the level change and how the deck will be used.

Ground-level deck

Low, simple, freestanding or attached

The simplest and most economical build, sitting close to grade.

Footings sized and set to bear
Post base anchors keeping timber off concrete
Beam and joist frame at the required spacing
Pressure-treated decking boards, consistent gaps
One or two steps to grade
Perimeter trim and fascia
Site tidied and levelled around the deck

Raised deck

Above grade, with stairs and railing

The common scope where the house sits above the garden and a guard railing is required.

Everything in Ground-level deck
Taller posts with lateral bracing where required
Ledger connection to the house, flashed
Stair flight with calculated, consistent risers
Guard railing with through-bolted newels
Corrosion-rated connectors throughout
Permits and inspections where the height requires them

Structured outdoor room

Deck as part of a wider space

Where the deck is the base for a larger outdoor living arrangement.

Everything in Raised deck
Multiple levels or a wrapped configuration
Integrated bench or planter framing
Electrical provision for lighting and outlets
Framing provision for a future cover or pergola
Screening or privacy elements
Coordination with landscape and hardscape works

Add-ons and upgrades, priced individually

Composite or hardwood decking upgrades
Hidden fastener systems for a clean board face
Integrated step and railing lighting
Under-deck drainage or storage
Privacy screening or slatted panels
Bench seating and planter framing
Framing provision for a future pergola or cover
Timber treatment, staining and sealing

Permit requirements for decks vary with height, attachment and location. We confirm what applies to your site rather than assuming.

Stage by stage

The build, in order.

The construction sequence from footings to finished deck.

Hidden fastener clips being set between deck boards during installation

Footings

A deck is only as good as what it stands on. Footings are sized and set to suit the loads and the ground, and inspected before anything is built on them.

Ledger board and flashing detail where a wood deck meets the house wall

Posts and bases

Posts sit on standoff bases rather than directly on concrete or soil, so water drains away from the end grain instead of sitting in it.

Galvanised post base connecting a deck post to its concrete footing

Beams and joists

Spans, spacing and hardware are specified together. Joist hangers and structural screws are part of the design, not a substitute for it.

Railing post bolted through the deck rim joist with blocking behind

The ledger, where there is one

Where a deck attaches to the house, the ledger connection and its flashing are the single most important detail on the job, and the one most often done badly.

Cut stair stringers and treads at the deck steps during construction

Decking and fasteners

Boards are set out for consistent gaps and fixed with a system that suits the material, so the surface stays flat and the fixings stay put.

Timber deck stairs and guard railing under construction

Stairs, rails and finish

Stair geometry is kept consistent, guard posts are bolted through the frame with blocking behind, and the timber is finished as the material requires.

AI-assisted visualization. Illustrative of the process described; not a photograph of a completed Elbaz Construction project. Sequence and connection detail reflect how the work is carried out; the property shown is illustrative.

Process and client experience

Ten stages, footing to handover.

A deck is a short, mostly outdoor project — which makes it one of the least disruptive things you can add to a house.

Initial consultation

We look at the site, the level change and how you want to use the space.

What to expect

About forty minutes in the garden. Think about furniture and how you will get to it.

Your decision

Deck position, rough size and whether it attaches to the house.

Site survey

Levels taken, soil conditions noted, house connection point assessed, services and drainage located.

QC · Existing levels and any services are located before footings are set out.

What to expect

Access to the garden and to any service routes.

Your decision

Nothing yet.

Design and layout

Deck plan, levels, stair position and railing configuration drawn.

What to expect

One or two rounds. Stair position usually drives the layout.

Your decision

Size, shape, stair position, railing style.

Material selection

Decking, railing and hardware specified, with maintenance expectations set out honestly.

What to expect

A clear picture of what each option will ask of you over time.

Your decision

Board material and finish.

Trim, fascia, any treatment or sealing, site cleared and handed over.

QC · Nothing is called complete until fixings and railing are checked throughout.

What to expect

Maintenance guidance for the material you chose.

Your decision

Sign-off at completion.

We do not promise building-department dates, and footing and finishing stages are weather-dependent.

Planning and risk reduction

Decks fail at their connections.

Almost every failed deck failed at a joint — the ledger, a post base, or a railing connection — rather than in the middle of a board.

The paperwork sequence, in order

Site surveyLevels, soil, drainage and existing services located.
Footing designSize and depth established for the loads and the ground conditions.
Attachment decisionWhether the deck attaches to the house or stands free, and what that means structurally.
Ledger detailFastener pattern and, critically, the flashing that keeps water out of the junction.
Framing layoutBeam and joist spacing set by span and by the decking material.
Hardware specificationConnectors and fixings rated for exterior treated timber in a coastal environment.
Guard railing designNewel fixing method established — through-bolted rather than surface-fixed.
Stair geometryRise and going calculated so every riser is identical.
Permit confirmationWhat applies for this height, attachment and location, confirmed rather than assumed.
Drainage detailBoard gaps and any falls so water leaves rather than sits.
DocumentationLedger flashing and structural connections photographed before covering.
HandoverFixings checked, railing tested, maintenance guidance given.

Why each step exists

Why the ledger gets a flashing

It is the single most common source of concealed rot in a house with a deck, and it is invisible once the boards are on.

Why hardware is rated

Treated timber and coastal air are both hard on steel. Unrated fixings corrode from the inside of the joint outward.

Why posts stand off the concrete

End grain in contact with a wet footing wicks water upward. A standoff anchor is a small cost that adds years.

Why stair rise is calculated

Uneven risers are the most common trip hazard on a domestic deck, and they come from adjusting at the bottom rather than calculating at the top.

What we will not tell you

We will not tell you a deck does not need a permit before checking what applies at your height, attachment and location. We will not attach a deck to a wall we have not been able to assess. And we will not promise a maintenance-free timber deck, because there is no such thing.

Cost and timeline transparency

What drives a deck number.

We do not publish deck prices. Height and attachment change the structure far more than plan area does.

Height above grade

A raised deck needs taller posts, lateral bracing, stairs and a guard railing. It is a materially different structure to a ground-level deck.

Decking material

Pressure-treated, cedar and composite sit at very different price points, with very different maintenance profiles.

Footing requirements

Size, depth and number, driven by loads and ground conditions.

Attached or freestanding

An attached deck needs a properly bolted and flashed ledger; a freestanding one needs additional posts and bracing instead.

Stairs

A flight of stairs with stringers, treads and its own railing is a significant element in its own right.

Railing specification

Simple timber, upgraded balustrade or cable and glass systems differ enormously.

Deck shape

Wraps, angles, multiple levels and curves all add framing complexity and waste.

Hardware specification

Corrosion-rated connectors and hidden fastener systems cost more than basic fixings.

Site access and ground

Getting materials to the rear of a property, and whether the ground is easy to excavate.

Finishing

Staining, sealing and trim detailing.

Low Moderate High Very high

Typical influence on a South Florida timber deck budget. General guidance for planning — not a quote.

What actually moves the schedule

Footing cure time, which cannot be compressed.
Permit review where one applies to the height or attachment.
Material lead times, particularly for composite and hardwood decking.
Weather — footings and finishing are both exposed stages.
Access, where materials have to be carried rather than delivered to the work area.

Questions worth asking any contractor

How are the footings sized, and to what depth?
Is the ledger being flashed, and how?
What connectors and fixings are being used, and are they rated for treated timber?
Are the newel posts through-bolted or surface-fixed?
How is the stair rise being calculated?
Does this deck need a permit at this height?
What maintenance will this material need, honestly?

How to prepare for an accurate estimate

Think about how you will use the deck — dining, lounging, circulation to the garden.
Note the level difference between the house and the garden.
Identify where services or drainage run through the area.
Decide your appetite for ongoing maintenance before choosing a material.
Check whether an HOA controls exterior alterations.
Consider whether you may want a cover or pergola later.

Estimates follow scope, not the other way round.

We price against a drawn scope, with allowances stated as allowances. That is what makes a proposal comparable to anyone else’s.

Get an itemised proposal

How a deck carries load

The structure, drawn.

Everything on a deck — the boards, the furniture, the people and the wind on the railing — travels down through these bands into the ground. Each junction between them is a connection, and connections are where decks fail.

Diagram drawn by Elbaz Construction for this page. It illustrates a typical timber deck structure; specific sizes and details come from the design for your site.

Every junction is a connection

Guard railing and stairs. Resists real horizontal load. Newels through-bolted into the frame, and every stair riser calculated to match.
Decking boards. The visible layer, and the cheapest to replace. Gaps let water through and let timber dry.
Joists and ledger. Framing in rated hangers. Where the deck meets the house, the flashing matters more than the bolts.
Posts and beams. Carry the frame down. Bracing where height requires it.
Footings and post anchors. Sized for the load and the ground, with standoff anchors keeping post end grain out of water.
Bearing ground. The end of the load path. Everything above is only as good as what it bears on.

Where decks actually fail

At the ledger and at the post bases. Both are concealed once the deck is finished, and both are cheap to detail correctly and expensive to put right afterwards.

Comparison, mistakes and buyer guide

Choosing decking for this climate.

The three common decking materials in South Florida

The three common decking materials in South Florida, compared on what actually differs over time.
Factor	Pressure-treated pine	Cedar or hardwood	Composite
Upfront cost	Lowest.	Middle to high.	Highest.
Maintenance	Regular cleaning, and sealing or staining to keep its appearance.	Regular sealing; weathers to grey if left.	Cleaning only; no sealing.
Heat underfoot	Moderate.	Moderate.	Can get noticeably hot in direct sun; varies by product.
Movement	Can cup, twist or check as it dries.	More stable than treated pine.	Expands and contracts with temperature; gapping is specified.
Appearance over time	Greys and weathers without maintenance.	Ages attractively if maintained.	Stays close to its original appearance.
Lifespan	Shortest of the three, but replaceable board by board.	Long with maintenance.	Longest, with the least intervention.
Best when	Budget matters most and you accept maintenance.	You want natural timber and will maintain it.	You want to stop thinking about it.

Attached versus freestanding decks

Attached versus freestanding decks.
Factor	Attached to the house	Freestanding
Structure	Ledger carries one side; fewer posts.	Posts and beams on all sides; more footings.
Main risk	The ledger connection and its flashing.	Lateral stability, which needs bracing.
Cost	Generally lower.	Generally higher.
When it is preferred	Most attached decks, where the wall can be assessed and flashed.	Where the wall cannot carry a ledger, or the deck sits away from the house.

The mistakes that cost the most

Bolting a ledger without flashing itThe most consequential deck mistake there is, and completely hidden once the boards are on.
Using unrated fixingsTreated timber and coastal air corrode ordinary steel from inside the joint. The failure is invisible until it is not.
Setting posts in contact with concreteEnd grain wicks water. A standoff anchor costs very little and adds years.
Surface-fixing railing postsA guard railing has to resist real horizontal load. Screwed to the outside of a rim board is not a structural connection.
Adjusting stair rise at the bottomEvery riser has to match. Uneven risers are the most common trip hazard on a domestic deck.
Laying boards tightTimber moves and water needs somewhere to go. Consistent gaps are a specification, not a tolerance.
Assuming no permit is neededIt varies with height, attachment and location. Assuming is how work gets undone.
Choosing composite purely to avoid maintenanceIt is a legitimate choice, but check heat underfoot for your exposure before committing.

Buyer checklist

Tick these off as you go — nothing is stored or sent, the list is here purely so you can use it while you compare contractors.

What the work is like

Outdoors, and mostly out of your way.

Completed wood deck with guard railing at a South Florida home — Illustration of a completed timber deck. AI-assisted visualization. Illustrative of the process described; not a photograph of a completed Elbaz Construction project.

Almost no interior disruption

Deck construction happens outside. Beyond access to the garden and occasional noise, daily life inside the house carries on.

Footings need to cure

There is a pause between footings and framing that cannot be shortened. It is planned into the programme rather than being a delay.

Preparation you can do

Clear the area, move planters and furniture, and confirm where materials can be delivered and stored.

Quality control, not just inspection

Ledger flashing and structural connections are photographed before the boards cover them, and riser heights are checked across the whole flight.

What completion means

Fixings checked throughout, railing tested, site cleared, and honest maintenance guidance for the material you chose.

Questions, answered

Wood deck construction in South Florida.

It depends on the height, whether it attaches to the house, and where it sits on the property. Some decks require one and some do not — we confirm what applies rather than assuming.
It depends on your maintenance appetite. Pressure-treated pine is cheapest but needs regular sealing; cedar and hardwoods are more stable and age well with maintenance; composite needs almost none but costs most and can get hot in full sun.
The comparison table above sets out the real differences.
It depends far more on the structure and hardware than on the boards. Properly sized footings, standoff post anchors, a flashed ledger and corrosion-rated connectors are what determine longevity — boards themselves are replaceable.
Because water runs down the house wall, and without flashing it runs straight into the junction between the deck and the structure. That junction is concealed once the boards are on, and it is the most common source of hidden rot in houses with decks.
Not necessarily. The wall has to be able to carry the load and be suitable for the fastener pattern, and it has to be assessable. Where it is not, a freestanding deck with its own posts is the right answer.
Timber decks need regular cleaning and periodic sealing or staining; composite needs cleaning only. In this climate, all decks benefit from keeping debris out of the board gaps so water can drain and timber can dry.
Guard railing requirements are height-dependent and set locally. We confirm what applies for your deck rather than working to a rule of thumb — and where a railing is required, the newel fixing method matters as much as the railing itself.
Much more easily if provision is made now. Framing and footings can be specified to carry a future cover, which is far cheaper than retrofitting support into a finished deck.
Pressure-treated timber is treated against them, and detailing matters too — keeping timber off the ground, out of standing water and able to dry reduces the conditions they favour.
A straightforward deck is a short project, but there is a fixed pause for footings to cure, and both the footing and finishing stages are weather-dependent.
Sometimes, depending on the slab's condition and the height it creates. It has to be assessed rather than assumed — building over an unsound slab moves the problem rather than solving it.
Financing options are available through Mosaic.

Why Elbaz Construction

Verified, and nothing more than that.

Licensed general contractorFlorida-licensed general contractor, License No. CBC1265280. Bonded and insured.
Quoted structure-firstFootings, framing and connections itemised separately from boards and railing, because that is where the deck's life is decided.
Ledger flashed as standardNot an upgrade. It is the difference between a deck and concealed damage to your house.
Corrosion-rated hardwareConnectors and fixings specified for treated timber in a coastal climate.
Local knowledgeWorking across 104 municipalities in Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties.
CommunicationOne point of contact from first conversation through closeout.
Documented before coveringLedger flashing and structural connections photographed before the boards hide them.
Honest maintenance expectationsWe will tell you what each material will actually ask of you, including the one that is cheapest today.

What homeowners say

Reviews, unedited.

Published on Google, quoted here word for word. We do not shorten, merge or rewrite a review.

4.8Average across 343 Google reviews
Read all 343 reviews on Google

The team was amazing. Did a fabulous job with the landscaping, roofing and backyard renovation. The best contractors I have worked with! Will definitely use this company in the future.

Derpy DayGoogle review

We had a good time dealing with Asher and the crew, he went over and above all our expectations and made every effort to ensure that the end result was up to their high standards. Thank you !!

Emmett GiffinGoogle review

Asher was knowledgeable and gave us cool ideas that we didn't even know before. Nice beautiful color and design. We appreciate the price !

Sierra BernabeoGoogle review

Elbaz Construction provided excellent service and great customer service. also provide the right team to get the job done. Any project or style that’s needed it. Elbaz Construction is the place to call. Thank you!

Jaee RodriguezGoogle review

Service Areas

Proudly serving homeowners across Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach

(754) 236-0675

104 municipalities across three counties — and we hold the licence to build in all of them. Not sure about your address? Ask us.

Schedule a Consultation (754) 236-0675

Start here

Start with the height and the wall.

How high the deck sits and whether it attaches to the house decide the structure, the permit position and most of the cost.

What happens after you send this

We call you back to understand how you want to use the space.
We survey the site — levels, ground conditions, services and the house connection point.
You get a deck layout with the structure specified, not just a board choice.
An itemised proposal separates structure, surface, stairs and railing.

Complete The Form Below (754) 236-0675

Worth having to hand

How you will use the deck
The level difference to the garden
Where services and drainage run
Your honest maintenance appetite
Any HOA exterior controls

Licensed, bonded and insured · License No. CBC1265280

Structure and connections specified, not just decking

Serving Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties

Sun–Fri 7am–7pm · Saturday closed

Thanks — that came through.

Your details are with the Elbaz Construction team. We will call you back to arrange the site visit. If it is urgent, call (754) 236-0675.

Built to lastin this climate.

Drainage is designed, not hoped for

Railings are a structural element

Stairs are where geometry has to be exact.

Project record

Footings and anchorage

The ledger, if it attaches to the house

Beams, joists and blocking

Boards, stairs and railing

Low, simple, freestanding or attached

Above grade, with stairs and railing

Deck as part of a wider space

Add-ons and upgrades, priced individually

Footings

Posts and bases

Beams and joists

The ledger, where there is one

Decking and fasteners

Stairs, rails and finish

Initial consultation

Site survey

Design and layout

Material selection

Proposal

Permits where required

Footings

Framing and ledger

Decking, stairs and railing

Finishing and handover

The paperwork sequence, in order

Why each step exists

Height above grade

Decking material

Footing requirements

Attached or freestanding

Stairs

Railing specification

Deck shape

Hardware specification

Site access and ground

Finishing

What actually moves the schedule

Questions worth asking any contractor

How to prepare for an accurate estimate

Every junction is a connection

The three common decking materials in South Florida

Attached versus freestanding decks

The mistakes that cost the most

Buyer checklist

Prepare before you call

Ask at the first meeting

Expect from a qualified contractor

Almost no interior disruption

Footings need to cure

Preparation you can do

Quality control, not just inspection

What completion means

01Do I need a permit for a deck?

02What decking material is best in South Florida?

03How long does a deck last here?

04Why does the ledger need flashing?

05Can a deck attach to any wall?

06What maintenance will it need?

07How high can a deck be before railings are required?

08Can we add a roof or pergola later?

09What about termites?

10How long does construction take?

11Can you build over an existing patio?

12Is financing available?

Related reading and services

Stained wood, composite and wood-look.

Collection: stained wood and composite decks

Scope of work

Materials & finishes

What to look for in the photos

Collection: wood-look covers beside decks

Scope of work

Materials & finishes

What to look for in the photos

Where a wood deck budget goes.

Built to last
in this climate.