Yes, but it usually means recessing a section of the slab at the shower location, which is real structural work and adds cost. A low-profile curb (under half an inch) gets a similar look and feel without cutting the slab, and is the more common choice on slab-on-grade conversions.

Most walk-in conversions land in the 36"x48" to 48"x60" range, larger than a standard 30"x60" tub footprint, though it depends on the room. Bigger isn't always better — a shower sized to the room without crowding the vanity or door swing usually looks and functions better than maximizing square footage.

It changes your layout options more than your day-to-day experience. A linear drain lets the floor slope one direction instead of four, which opens up space for a bench or a wider entry and is generally easier to waterproof cleanly.

Frameless glass keeps water contained better and reads more finished, but a fully open (curtain-free) walk-in design works in larger showers where the entry is angled away from the rest of the room. It comes down to room size and layout more than preference.

The exhaust requirement itself doesn't change with shower size — Florida's code minimum is 50 CFM regardless — but a larger, more open shower puts more humidity into the room faster, so we often recommend sizing the fan above the code minimum on bigger conversions.

If the drain isn't moving, this can run one to two weeks. If the drain relocates and the slab needs to be cut, add several days for the concrete work and curing time before the pan can be built.

The plumbing rough-in (drain and valve relocation) requires a licensed plumber and a permit regardless of who does the tile work. Unpermitted plumbing changes are a common reason inspections fail or resales get flagged later.

A prefabricated waterproof base generally costs less in labor since it arrives pre-sloped, while a custom tiled mud-set pan costs more but allows any size, shape, and tile pattern — including matching the shower floor tile to the walls.